Travel Times (New Straits Times)

From Kuala Lumpur to Kuala Terengganu, the route winds eastward along the Karak Highway to Kuantan taking about three hours and on to Kuala Terengganu in another three hours. The coastal route in Terengganu passes through quaint villages with intermittent scenes of lovely beaches. The inland route through Gua Musang in Kelantan passes through Kota Baru before looping back to Kuala Terengganu. It can take up to 10 hours. By air, Malaysia Airlines and AirAsia operate regular flights to Kuala Terengganu from Kuala Lumpur.

Terengganu River Safari & Heritage Tour This is one of many packages offered by award-winning local tour operator Ping Anchorage Travel and Tours Sdn Bhd. The company, established in 1990, won the Malaysia Tourism Awards for Best Tour Operator for the year 2000 and 2001/2002 and Best Tour Package 2000. The cruise takes about four hours through Sungai Terengganu, Sungai Jeram and Sungai Nerus. It departs from Shah Bandar river taxi jetty. Nett rates per pax: RM80 (4 pax); RM90 (3 pax); RM110 (2 pax); children below 12 (less 50 per cent). Rates include refreshment/food, transportation by boat and guide. Museum entry fee of RM2 excluded. Museum and boat-making factory closed Fridays. Advisable to join tour on other days. Details and reservations, call 09-6262020, fax 09-6262022, email info@pinganchorage.com.my or access www.pinganchorage.com.my.

SUNGAI Terengganu and its tributaries, Sungai Jeram and Sungai Nerus, are a sanctuary off popular tourist routes in Kuala Terengganu. Murky and calm in fine weather, the rivers are in stark contrast to the rough turquoise blue waters of the South China Sea.

Cruising the rivers is an alternative way to discover Terengganu's treasure trove of riverine villages, rural lifestyle, culture, history and nature.

Leaving the Shah Bandar river taxi jetty, which is less than five minutes' walk from buzzing Pasar Payang in Kuala Terengganu, our tour boat entered the busy waterway with bot penambang (river taxis) ferrying passengers to nearby villages while traditional and modern fishing and commercial boats made their way either towards the open sea or upriver.

The scene is a reminder that Terengganu was once a bustling maritime state and Kuala Terengganu was a port-of-call for spice traders in early 1900s. The port attracted traders from all over Southeast Asia, exchanging goods like pepper, onions and salt with local rice and spices.

Some traders and seafarers then used boats made in Terengganu specifically in Pulau Duyung, renowned in Malaysia as centre of the traditional boat-making industry.

In fact, the quality and durability of boats made by Malay builders in Pulau Duyung have attracted many owners from Australia, New Zealand, the US, Canada, England, Denmark, France and Italy.

Pulau Duyung, one of the many islands along Terengganu river, was the first stop. Guide Zaidi Musa of Ping Anchorage Travel and Tours says Pulau Duyung means Mermaid Island as legend has it that mermaids had "landed" on the island in the past. Nevertheless, the island is synonymous with boat making and expert builders who inherit their skills from their forefathers.

The most respected boat maker there, says Zaidi, is Abdullah Muda or fondly called Haji Dollah. Now 70, Abdullah is not just any boat maker as he leads in traditional construction.

This master craftsman is said to have never compromised on quality and has taken as long as two years and more to complete vessels with painstaking detail. Most are made of the hardy local hardwood species, the chengal, preferred for its durability.

At the boat "factory", you can see the fine workmanship of Abdulah and other boat makers working a dying trade due to both economic and technological reasons.

In the early 80s, there were some 30 boatyards on the island. Now there are only four. So all the more a visit to Pulau Duyung is a must to experience a rich legacy that may not survive the test of time.

From the headland of the island, a Chinese village with wooden stilt houses can be seen. It has been recognised by the World Monuments Watch in its listing of 100 Most Endangered Sites.

Cruising further upriver, we entered Sungai Jeram and were charmed by a rural setting and seemingly easy and carefree lifestyle.

Rural folk were seen resting in the outdoors by the banks of the river. Some rowed their sampans to cast lines for fish and even prawns. There were also those who moved in small modern boats carrying goods.

Children were a delight to watch, swimming and doing summersaults from trees into the water and splashing happily about. Another delightful scene was women washing clothes the old way by the river.

Lush vegetation, coconut trees, mangroves and nipah palms grow wildly and profusely by the banks. Sometimes, says Zaidi, we can even spot monitor lizards, otters and eagles.

From Sungai Jeram, we moved to Sungai Nerus and after about 30 minutes, we reached Kampung Jeram. Surprisingly, amidst traditional Malay village houses, there is a Chinese temple with roof edges in striking red in stark contrast to the green foliage.

Whether it is history or legend, it is said the great Admiral Cheng Ho of China's Ming dynasty sailed through the area in 1414, stopping for fresh water and food supplies.

His vessel was believed to have run aground in the middle of the river with slabs of rocks, strong whirlpools and large tree roots.

Zaidi says Cheng Ho was believed to have spent some time in the village and won the hearts of locals. Although he was a Muslim, he was well respected by the Chinese.

The temple was built only in 1943 by the Terengganu Chinese Cultural Association in memory of Cheng Ho also known as Sam Poh Kong or San Po Kung, the "Three-Jewel Eunuch". "Pilgrims" pay respect at the temple during Chinese New Year and other special occasions.

At Kampung Jeram, we turned back the same route and headed for Kampung Tanjong Sabtu where a opulent Terengganu legacy is preserved by none other than a Terengganu prince.

Pura Tanjong Sabtu Cultural Centre is the result of the passion of Tengku Ismail Tengku Su to preserve his royal heritage. It is a cluster of centuries-old Terengganu homes lovingly restored.

The pura, sanskrit for palace, temple or city, is a combination of 10 traditional houses moved from other areas to the present site, a sprawling 5.6 ha site with lush tropical landscape.

Tengku Ismail has a private domain at the centre. Hence all visits and homestays are by appointment only. Otherwise, visitors can only wander the grounds and marvel at the showcase from outside.

Next, we moved to another great Terengganu treasure house, the State Museum in Bukit Losong, Kampung Losong which, of all things, is more famous for its keropok lekor! Sprawled on 27 ha, the museum is the biggest in the country and also said to be the biggest indoor and outdoor museum in Southeast Asia.

It consists of four multi-storey complexes with 10 galleries both indoor and outdoor, all designed in traditional Terengganu architecture.

A priceless historical relic, the "batu bersurat" which is regarded as the earliest written testimony of the existence of Islam in Terengganu, greets visitors at the main building.

There are also many other exhibits that a one day visit may not do it justice.

Tired after a long cruise, we were pleased when Zaidi brought out some picnic baskets and laid out mats at the rest area near the museum jetty. It was a sumptuous lunch by the river, a welcome addition to a memorable journey. IN THE THICK OF ACTION VISITS to many interesting places in Kuala Terengganu will be made easy by staying in the business centre of town.